I'm currently searching for more information about this marvel (and I've actually purchased one). Couldn't find too much in apug.org or RFF or anywhere else, so my question is: anybody here in this forum using this fantastic camera? If so, what are your experiences? Any tips & tricks?

don't you love it, when people who don't know anything reply anyway :)

i have the plaubel makina 67 and it is my favorite. i hope you enjoy yours as much as i do my mimi version.

Yes, at least I know someone is reading my lines :)

Fun aside - the Makinas are fantastic cameras. Small, fast, precise rangefinder, almost spot lightmeter and a razorsharp Nikon lens! Real precision tools compared to the new Tupper boxes with attached sensors :D

like ann I know little -- only what i'vew read on the web--, but have always thought this vamera would be a gem. Let us know what you find both in information and (more imprortantly) use.

jd, I will set up a gallery with images and post the link here. But it might take a while because I won't be able to test this cameras before the end of this week.

One thing is for sure: it is (or was) the most unusual MF camera on the market and I'm a weird guy with a faible for exotic precision instruments :D

cool

jens, will definitely be looking forward to your posts. I had a Makina 6x7 some 20 years ago and was quite impressed with it. Replaced it with a "Texas Leica" Fuji 690II which I still use. I have often thought of replacing the Fuji with the Makina Proshift but have been put off by, if I am correct, its lack of any focus control beyond zone focus.

Ted, you are right, there is no focus control. But at f 8.0 you have a DOF from 3.09 to infinity, or with a distance set to 3.00 meters from 2.03 to 5.78 meters. I think that's plenty - at least a lot more than with my Fujis.

With this wide angle lens you really don't need a precise focus control, at least not for architecture, landscapes, interiors. OK, I have to admit that I'm pretty good in estimating distances with my eyes ;)

I'm waiting for a document from Dr. Nasse, chief engineer lens development @ Zeiss, about depth of field. I hope it will give me a 'better feeling' because when I use my Fujis I don't use the rangefinder too often, I tend to rely more on the DOF tables/scales which worked well for me so far.

The lens itself is comparable to the Fuji lenses - crisp, razor sharp, excellent color rendition. The camera is more 'convenient' in the field and on location compared to a LF with a 6x9 back, better protected against sea spray, rain, dust, sand - you name it. With 1.7 kilograms you can pack it into a small bag, grab a tripod and off you go. Very flexible and easy.

With this wide angle lens you really don't need a precise focus control, at least not for architecture, landscapes, interiors. OK, I have to admit that I'm pretty good in estimating distances with my eyes ;)

Welllllll .... maybe. Depends on how critical you are, how critical your client/viewer is, how big the print, etc. and wheether you are shooting for yourself or comercially. I agree that I can do awfully well in estimating distances with my eye and don't miss the ability to focus with a groundglass or rangefinder on my Noblex. OTOH, for the $2500 or so used you pay for the Makina I at least want the option of a ground glass if I have a real critical focus need and I do feel cheated at that kind of a price not to have a rangefinder.

Ted, if you want spot on focus, you can get a Stanley laser distance measure for some 80 or 90 Euros at ebay. Place it on top of your camera, click the button and read the correct distance with a precision up to millimeters. IMHO this method is superior to a groundglass focusing in average and low light conditions because you will use a tripod anyway with a camera like this one if you want to deliver commercial quality.

OK, the images of the Plaubel are online:

http://jens.highspeedweb.net/plaubel

Jens,
It is lovely! I'd love one of these and yours looks like a pristine sample. Congrats and enjoy.


I'd use for street photography and some archetectural. It would eb a simple matter to find the focus settings for either

JD,

I'll use it for landscapes, cityscapes and architecture. With the center filter - which is a must when using slide film - it's almost impossible to use it for street. In landscape, cityscapes and architecture most objects are at a distance of more than 10 meters which equals infinite. Using an aperture of 22 with the center filter and a Fuji Provia 100F will give a very large DOF and require a tripod for the 1/2 sec to 15 sec exposure.

Considering the weight - 1.8 kg - it's better to use a tripod anyway ;)

I'm currently bidding on an optical distance measure. If I can't get it, I'll check Horseman USA: they have a very nice optical distance measure which isn't too expensive. It would serve as a 'just in case I need to set a shorter distance' device :D

BTW, the Super Angulon features a small focus ring lock at 5m and 2m - without the center filter the 2m setting should be perfect for street if you've been a weight lifter in your former life :D

The Plaubel is a mechanical experience in itself. The film transport, the smooth rings on the lens, the shift of the front plate - wow, what a precise masterpiece. Like my Fujis. I know that no digital camera ever will be able to meet the value of the craftsmanship because you can't compare a yoghurt cup with an attached sensor to a mechanical camera milled of solid brass and aluminium.

I'll get the first film from the lab tomorrow and try to scan it next week. I'm very exited and can't wait to see the slides on the light table <sigh>. Hell I wish I would be more patient!

Ahhh, now that's what I really like - 'in camera' perspective correction:
The Schneider Super-Angulon is a fantastic lens!

http://jens.highspeedweb.net/invierno/crop1416a.jpg