Digital negatives printed on Fabriano Academia in VDB process:
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e34/piticu/scan0008.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e34/piticu/scan0007.jpg

Congrats!

1. I think you can use some more exposure (for better dmax)
2. Your specular highlights aren't cleared enough (could be paper and/or processing error)
3. Definitely try noble metal toning later

Regards,
Loris.

Loris, thank you for passing by and let me know your opinion.
About the base exposure you are right, i haven't done any testing yet.
But I belive that the hightlights are clear as paper can deliver, please notice how the white band compares with uncoated paper.
Right now I can't afford even a noble metal tonning hihi - maybe some day in the future, who knows :)

These look great -- I agree with Loris about the DMax -- but they're waaaay better than my first VDBs...

Oops, yes, you're right about the whites.

Is it double coating or single? (Can't tell by the edges, seems more like double coating but...) If single definitely try double coating too -> you'll get an amazing increase in dmax. But mind that you'll need an even stronger negative when double coating.

It isn't that much expensive, a small bottle of Gold Chloride goes a long way with gold/thiourea formulation. You need 0.5g (= USD 15) per liter of toner. The toner is reusable; at least 30 8x10" prints (including borders) per liter of toner, makes an extra cost of only USD 0.5 per print -> not too much for a "keeper". (You'll tone only the successful / good ones.)

Some say they have good results with selenium toning but I don't like it because of the yellowish color + I'm not sure about the protection level - since one has to use very little selenium toner in order to avoid bleaching...

I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry.
You got a point about gold chloride, i didn't know that the toner is reusable.
Thank you both for your advices :)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e34/piticu/scan0009.jpg

...I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry...

That means the second coating didn't get *into* the paper. Vandyke sensitizer contains Ammonium Iron(III) Citrate and this compound is not easily absorbed by paper fibers and often stays on top. (Especially with hard / strong sized papers and/or dry paper/environment situtation...)

You can do the first coating, wait few minutes, like 3-5 minutes or just until the surface is not shiny anymore (but matte) then quickly do the second coat. (Don't let the sensitizer pool stay on the same spot for too long. If not, you'll get uneven sensitizing.) The paper will absorb the second coating more easily since it's very moist and the fibers are relaxed...

Hope this helps. Your single coating results aren't bad anyway -> that was just a suggestion in case you need more punch / drama...

Regards,
Loris.

I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry.
You got a point about gold chloride, i didn't know that the toner is reusable.
Thank you both for your advices :)


I think your prints look very very good for first attempts. You are on the right track. Don't know how you are making your digi negs but just keep in mind that what ever you do about coating, exposure, toning, etc. needs to be consistent to get repeatable results.

Don

just keep in mind that what ever you do about coating, exposure, toning, etc. needs to be consistent to get repeatable results.
True. I just bought a second hand tanning machine so right now the only thing that's out of my control is water - i'm using tap water and it's really shitty water, muddy and with lots of iron. I'm planning to get a water filter in the near future.
Also i didn't kept an eye on temperatures but i understood that it doesn't matter too much with VDB.

One thing that really helped me when making VDBs was humidity control during coating. I could never get consistent results until I made sure the humidity was constant (and high!) when coating and drying the paper. I got much better DMax as a result.

I made sure the humidity was constant (and high!) when coating and drying the paper. I got much better DMax as a result.

Isn't this a contradiction? Or that means that the paper is never fully dried when exposed? I appologize for my bad understanding of english language.

Vandyke is a print-out process, therefore you need some moisture in the paper during exposure, for the best/strongest possible print out. The ideal environmental moisture level is something like 60% at room temperature. A nice trick I use for excessively dry weather is to add glycerin into the coating solution. (After measuring and transferring to another vessel, do not contaminate the stock solution!) 2-6 drops per ml is usually enough. Since glycerin is a humectant, it will help maintaining the necessary amnt. of moisture in the paper, even it it's dry to the touch. Try it!

Regards,
Loris.

I have some glycerin but it has some borax in it. Anyway, i will try it and see what's going on. I will also try to steam the paper a little bit before exposure. I'll post the results

You should use pure glycerin...

BTW, post-exposure steam (preferrably cold, ultrasonic steam) could be more useful, or better, less risky than pre-exposure since ammonium iron(III) citrate (also) is hygroscopic by nature, therefore when overdone, pre-exposure humidifying may lead your negatives to stick onto the paper...

Yes, i've noticed that - i've destroyed two a4 negatives. The solution i found is to lay down the film with the emulsion side up, even i lose sharpness at least i don't lose the film. I will try post exposure humidifying.

If film stick then the paper is too moist. It should be dry to the touch but moist. Anyway, don't fiddle much if the results with your original workflow are fine enough to you. (They seem fine to me, except for the fact they really need some more exposure to achieve the best the process is technically capable of, academically...)

Regards,
Loris.

except for the fact they really need some more exposure to achieve the best the process is technically capable of, academically
You are absolutely right Loris. I've done a test for base exposure and i got 9-10 minutes, more than double of maximum exposure i used to use. I'm so embarrassed now, i should have done this from the beginning. Now i think i have to redone the creation of compensation curve. Damn! Another OHP film "lost". :o

Because the correct exposure gives way too dark print with the negative that i have right now, i've decided to tone the print, mostly for bleaching side effect the indigo toner by foma has. The print i got has the highest dmax i've obtained till now.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e34/piticu/scan0011.jpg

One more VDB, still single coating. Lots of exposure.