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My firsts VDB
Digital negatives printed on Fabriano Academia in VDB process:  -
Congrats!
1. I think you can use some more exposure (for better dmax)
2. Your specular highlights aren't cleared enough (could be paper and/or processing error)
3. Definitely try noble metal toning later
Regards,
Loris.
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Loris, thank you for passing by and let me know your opinion.
About the base exposure you are right, i haven't done any testing yet.
But I belive that the hightlights are clear as paper can deliver, please notice how the white band compares with uncoated paper.
Right now I can't afford even a noble metal tonning hihi - maybe some day in the future, who knows -
These look great -- I agree with Loris about the DMax -- but they're waaaay better than my first VDBs...
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Oops, yes, you're right about the whites.
Is it double coating or single? (Can't tell by the edges, seems more like double coating but...) If single definitely try double coating too -> you'll get an amazing increase in dmax. But mind that you'll need an even stronger negative when double coating.
It isn't that much expensive, a small bottle of Gold Chloride goes a long way with gold/thiourea formulation. You need 0.5g (= USD 15) per liter of toner. The toner is reusable; at least 30 8x10" prints (including borders) per liter of toner, makes an extra cost of only USD 0.5 per print -> not too much for a "keeper". (You'll tone only the successful / good ones.)
Some say they have good results with selenium toning but I don't like it because of the yellowish color + I'm not sure about the protection level - since one has to use very little selenium toner in order to avoid bleaching...
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I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry.
You got a point about gold chloride, i didn't know that the toner is reusable.
Thank you both for your advices  -
 Originally Posted by piticu ...I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry... That means the second coating didn't get *into* the paper. Vandyke sensitizer contains Ammonium Iron(III) Citrate and this compound is not easily absorbed by paper fibers and often stays on top. (Especially with hard / strong sized papers and/or dry paper/environment situtation...)
You can do the first coating, wait few minutes, like 3-5 minutes or just until the surface is not shiny anymore (but matte) then quickly do the second coat. (Don't let the sensitizer pool stay on the same spot for too long. If not, you'll get uneven sensitizing.) The paper will absorb the second coating more easily since it's very moist and the fibers are relaxed...
Hope this helps. Your single coating results aren't bad anyway -> that was just a suggestion in case you need more punch / drama...
Regards,
Loris.
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 Originally Posted by piticu I've tried double coating but the second coat washes off - i might not let it enough to dry.
You got a point about gold chloride, i didn't know that the toner is reusable.
Thank you both for your advices  I think your prints look very very good for first attempts. You are on the right track. Don't know how you are making your digi negs but just keep in mind that what ever you do about coating, exposure, toning, etc. needs to be consistent to get repeatable results.
Don
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 Originally Posted by Don Bryant just keep in mind that what ever you do about coating, exposure, toning, etc. needs to be consistent to get repeatable results. True. I just bought a second hand tanning machine so right now the only thing that's out of my control is water - i'm using tap water and it's really shitty water, muddy and with lots of iron. I'm planning to get a water filter in the near future.
Also i didn't kept an eye on temperatures but i understood that it doesn't matter too much with VDB.
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One thing that really helped me when making VDBs was humidity control during coating. I could never get consistent results until I made sure the humidity was constant (and high!) when coating and drying the paper. I got much better DMax as a result.
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