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how dark...
I have been working on converting my garage into a darkroom for alternative process printing. And am just wondering how dark I need to get it... In particular I was worried about sunlight reflecting through cracks and up under doors... So just how dark does it need to be?
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 Originally Posted by lenslens  I have been working on converting my garage into a darkroom for alternative process printing. And am just wondering how dark I need to get it... In particular I was worried about sunlight reflecting through cracks and up under doors... So just how dark does it need to be? If you have sunlight shining or reflecting through cracks, IMO that's too much ambient light even for alt. processes. My approach would be just to make the space light tight and then it should be a non issue.
Some alt. processes are faster than others such as salt printing or kallitypes so they can be fogged if you aren't careful. Some people never realize this thinking that alt. processes are slower than factory made emulsions (which they are) and that visible ambient light can be disregarded.
You can be somewhat lax with certain processes but that's not an all inclusive assumtion, IMO.
Don Bryant
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My alt darkroom is not at all dark, it just doesn't have any SUN light in it :-) . Seriously, many alt processes can be carried out in dim to normal room light (fluorescent bulbs can cause problems sometimes), but UV light, like from the sun, would probably be a problem.
You could work at night to eliminate the problem as well.
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at this stage it I will be doing Cyanotypes, and then moving into Palladium. are they considered fast or slow processes? it would be nice to be able to print during the day... my question stems from comparing the last darkroom I built which I managed to get dark enough for developing film and I know how much effort that took, and not really having anything else to compare too.. the books talk about subdued light... and am trying to work out what that really means.... I am attacking the walls with cardboard at the moment to knock out all the direct light...
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Originally Posted by lenslens at this stage it I will be doing Cyanotypes, and then moving into Palladium. are they considered fast or slow processes? it would be nice to be able to print during the day... my question stems from comparing the last darkroom I built which I managed to get dark enough for developing film and I know how much effort that took, and not really having anything else to compare too.. the books talk about subdued light... and am trying to work out what that really means.... I am attacking the walls with cardboard at the moment to knock out all the direct light... If you can do that and illuminate your coating area with low wattage tungsten (40 to 60W) lights you should be good to go. I do however dry my coated emulsions in the dark just simply to be positive that I don't get any unexpected fog, but I'm a bit anal in that regard.
I would print cyanotypes till you are blue in the face.  This will help you get used to coating your own emulsions in preparation for more expensive processes such as platinum/palladium and or gum. Besides a well made cyanotype is quite beautiful.
Don
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Yes Don that is exactly the plan... print Cyanotypes till I master the coating, printing and digital negs... I just put up one of my safe lights - How far away does the tungsten light need to be from the coating area? I will build a drying cabnet soon, as I think I can do it with a duel purpose in mind and dry my 4x5 negs in there too. Haven't quite figured out how to heat it though, was looking for radiant, like an electric blanket...
Thanks, Len
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How far away does the tungsten light need to be from the coating area?
The usual advice is about 3 feet.
I will build a drying cabnet soon, as I think I can do it with a duel purpose in mind and dry my 4x5 negs in there too. Haven't quite figured out how to heat it though, was looking for radiant, like an electric blanket...
I use drying racks for coated prints with a floor fan gently blowing air through the racks.
As for the cabinet mine is unheated, I let my film drip dry. Works great.
Don
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An inexpensive way to shield off an area in your garage for your darkroom is to staple off an area with black 4-6 mil visqueen from the ceiling and over your windows. It's plenty dark. I did mine with overlapping sections so that would be able to walk out of the area from any point inside the darkroom.
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Alternative processes like cyanotype are very slow - not very sensitive to light, so a few leaks are generally OK as long as the sunlight does not fall directly on the material. I would also be careful of any strong reflections from white paint or light colored objects. Remember, sunlight is rich in ultraviolet, which is what these materials are sensitive to. Try to plug the leaks as well as you can, but it doesn't need to be perfect. I've used black polyethylene film (sold for garden use) with success in the past.
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