Developing Kodak T-Max 100

[rnwhalley]

I am relatively new to film developing but have been trying out a few new films recently. I have noticed when I develop T-Max 100 there is a blueish tint to the water I wash the film in. This goes after a few washes and doesn't seem to affect the neg.

Can anyone tell me if this is some sort of indicator in the film to help you know when you have washed it sufficiently?

Thanks

[ann]

it is common for various films to leave a wonderful variety of colors (depending on the developer) .

it has nothing to do with wash times, basically it is usually the antihaliation backing.

i am sure someone here will have a more complicated scientific details for you.

[Worker 11811]

What she said...



Nothing to worry about. Won't hurt anything.

It is a layer of dye applied to the film to absorb any stray light that might cause lack of contrast and/or tiny halos around areas where there is a light to dark transition in the image. Just as Ann says, it's called the anti-halation layer.

If you want to be anal retentive about things you can prewash the film for 1 minute in plain water before you develop. Some people do. Some people don't.

[rnwhalley]

Thanks. I'm not worrie about the dye I just thought it was a good idea that someone had included a washing indicator in the film. It seems to help me ensure I wash it sufficiently so may just use it for that.

Thanks again

[mpirie]

Thanks. I'm not worrie about the dye I just thought it was a good idea that someone had included a washing indicator in the film. It seems to help me ensure I wash it sufficiently so may just use it for that.

Thanks again

Hi,

The colour is not an indicator of washing, it's an indication that the anti-halation backing that's applied to the film during manufacturing has been dissolved in your first solution, whether that be in a pre-wash or in the developer.

I pre-soak/wash my FP4+ and blueish water comes out. After the next bath (developer) there is no colour left, so the dev, stop and fix should have no anti-halation colours to them.

Regards,
Mike

[Loris Medici]

...
I pre-soak/wash my FP4+ and blueish water comes out. After the next bath (developer) there is no colour left, so the dev, stop and fix should have no anti-halation colours to them.
...

Actually, pre-soak of any Ilford film isn't recommended by the manufacturer, since the emulsion already has wetting agents in it, for the purpose of even and quick developer absorption. (I don't pre-soak any film of any make, BTW...)

I'd stick with the manufacturer's processing recommendations. Enough fixing (usually not more than 5 minutes with film strength fixer) and adequate washing will take care of the dye. As Don says, if it's still not completely free of the dye after 15 mins. washing/rinsing, use hypo clear after fixing / before rinse and you'll be fine. I personally don't use hypo clear and all my films (except few first rolls which I haven't gave enough rinse) are free of anti-halation (and/or panchromatic sensitization) dyes, and in good shape...

Regards,
Loris.

[Worker 11811]

I use T-Max and I presoak before I develop. The water comes out magenta colored. (Purplish pink.) By the time the developing is finished there is no more color left.

If you recycle your developer it would be smart to presoak but if you dump your developer after every use the anti-halation dye layer is probably a non-issue.

[Greg Davis]

Kodak films will be magenta from this dye, but it can be removed whether you do a pre-soak or not. Tri-X is the hardest to eliminate, T-Max 400 the easiest. I don't do a pre-soak, but after the hypo clear I soak the film in water for 5 minutes, dump it out, then repeat two more times. After that, I wash in running water for 5 minutes. All the dye is gone, except for Tri-X, which is mostly gone.